艺术,Travel & Life in Italy & Europe

不那么冒险的冰岛(第2部分:南部和高地)

This is the second part of a long reflection on my trip to Iceland in April 2017.If you'd like,you can在这里读第一部分,where I think about how Iceland ended up with so many tourists,and show you what I discovered in the quite happening town of Reykjavik.

这是我们走出城市去看看冰岛真正出名的地方:很多很多瀑布,amazing and unusual natural phenomena,以及巨大的虚无延伸。With one week by car in the shoulder season,我们坚持冰岛南部and also visited the高地,getting slightly off the main tourist drag but sticking to an area with roads that would be passable at this time of the year.

我们为我们的旅行制作了一个三分钟的视频——无论是Tommaso还是我都不是摄影师,所以这是非常业余的——但这是对您将在下面阅读的内容的完美总结。

South Iceland: waterfalls,北极光和海雀!

冰岛的不同地区各有其特点。冰岛南部可能有greatest concentration of highlights,as well as a greater possibility that roads will be open in winter,making it a favourite of tour companies,谁在这条路线上推销巴士旅游?旅游业的“黄金圈”从雷克雅未克东南部一直延伸到赛尔夫罗斯,东北至盖瑟和古尔福斯。Our plan was to avoid stopping within this range but to head south nonetheless.

We visted a power station...

We visted a power station…

Our first stop less than an hour outside Reykjavik was an uncrowded educational one,this time selected by my engineer husband: theHellisheidi电站.Since expansion of the system during the 1970s oil crisis,geothermal energypowers over 85% of houses in Iceland and accounts for 25% of the country's total energy output,据国家能源局称。99% of the energy produced here is renewable,harnessing the power of water and wind as well.这座最近建造的地热发电厂整合了一个发达的博物馆,解释了它是如何运作的。徳赢网though my lack of scientific background makes it best that I don't attempt a summary.我学到的一件事是,像这种管道热水的植物用来给家里取暖,也用作洗澡水,既便宜又丰富,当我们到达下一家酒店时,我们非常喜欢的因素。

一个下雪的早晨,旅馆的门铃响了。

一个下雪的早晨,旅馆的门铃响了。

“大城市”外头两个晚上的基地是拉昂饭店,一个与世界上的小型豪华酒店相联系的四星级度假村,也是南部唯一的选择。Arriving there was the oddest thing: the building looks like a Muskoka log cabin.Muskoka是多伦多以北的安大略乡村,我很震惊地发现它在冰岛中部。当我们遇到魅力四射的老板弗里·里克时,他说:“我打赌你在这里感觉很自在”,并解释说该国所有的建筑材料都必须进口(冰岛并不是以森林闻名,尽管它们确实存在,and he found the best deal in Canada!

Gunnar和Hallger_ur

Gunnar和Hallger_ur

Although most of the furniture and the building materials are Canadian,Friðrik and his right-hand-man Ingi are huge当地艺术和文化的推动者.他们雇了德里克·蒙德尔,1976年英国移植到冰岛,as coordinating artist in order to attract local artists to paint original works on the bedroom walls.Many represent scenes from the Njáls Saga,A 13-世纪传奇描述了在这一领域甚至更早发生的事情,and that I happened to be reading during my visit (it's tough going,不推荐)。我最喜欢的画在朗_,by Guðrùn Sigurðardottir,代表了冈纳和哈尔格·乌尔故事中的一个场景,一个非常漂亮和下流的女人,她往往要杀死她的丈夫。酒店的套房是各大洲的创意代表(尽管它们建造了更多的套房,它们已经走出大陆,正在改变主题);I quite liked the Asian one,但我不想呆在南极,因为南极的气温较低,只是为了好玩。

北极光和日落!

北极光和日落!

Rangà is known for its on-site observatory and northern lights viewing sessions,so it's good to stay two or more nights to increase your chances of seeing an active night sky.We were there in the shoulder season at the end of April.It was the last two nights during which it would be possible to see the lights before the days got too long,and viewing is weather dependent: you need a clear night.At reception you can sign up for a northern lights wake up call,and the desk manager will phone when activity is spotted.我们把最热的内层和外层都铺好了,睡觉前我把尼康和三脚架放在夜间。第一天晚上什么也没发生,我们醒来时四周都是雪。第二天晚上,we got the call at 1am and rushed out,在我们已经暖和的装备上加上提供的奇妙的雪地摩托服。I was snug and smug as I spent an hour trying to get a good picture.灯光不是很强,但它确实是令人惊奇的。Also,我的照片记录了一个有趣的现象——凌晨1点30分天空中还残留着一点日落光!

你只是希望能有理由穿这些连体裤…

你只是希望能有理由穿这些连体裤…

当两个季节性的事情重叠的时候,我们真的很幸运来到冰岛。在四月的最后两周,你可能会看到灯光的尽头和羽绒服季节的开始。这些可爱的鸟,which you may see on menus,可怜的东西,就在此时,成群结队来到岛上,在夏天你可能会看到很多。We had a bright sunny day to explore the famous black beach at Reynisfjara and neighbouring Dyrhólaey Arch and lo and behold,Tommaso's 20/20 eyesight allowed him to see just one little puffin hiding in the rocks (and my 270mm zoom lens allowed me to see it and photograph it).

puffin

Lone puffin spotted

我真的很喜欢Dyrh_laey的景色,我们花了很长时间坐在岩石上,眺望大海(下面的海滩由于“危险的爬行动物波”而关闭了)。根据标志,尽管有几个人冒着去那里的危险)。

戴尔莱莱

戴尔莱莱

It's a short drive from here to the black beach,不幸的是,我们还参加了许多巴士旅行,令我惊讶的是。我以为这遥远的南方是大多数游客无法到达的,但显然不是。Had we had more time,我真的很想继续沿着海岸行驶几个小时到J_kuls_rl_n,a glacier lagoon I've seen in photos,where we might have been quite alone.But there was much else to be seen along the way,所以虽然技术上距离不长,我想停在每个瀑布,马,sheep or lava field,这样就减慢了速度。

Me behind Seljaland

Me behind Seljaland

有两个waterfalls离朗_只有半个小时的路程,这是我们旅行中最大的亮点之一。你可以从路上看到塞尔贾兰瀑布;下午太阳很晚,so that's the best time to visit,当薄雾和太阳形成彩虹!这瀑布不寻常,因为你可以走在它后面,我们很快就做到了,我们穿上了坐在雨中的救生衣,waterproof snowboard jackets and goretex footwear.The only thing I didn't count on was how wet my camera lenses would get,so my photos are terrible.But boy was that fun.从那里,it's a 500 meter walk along a path to another waterfall that most people don't visit because to see the whole of Gljúfrabúi,you have to walk in a low stream and into a cave,where you get soaked.站在那里,水拍打着我的脸,这是我认为我有过的最美妙的感觉。纯粹的欢乐。

Gljufrabui waterfall in a cave

Gljufrabui waterfall in a cave

喝了这么多水之后,路上几个小时,it was wonderful to retire to the hotel's gourmet restaurant.Icelandic cuisine has come a long way in recent years,除了当地生产商努力种植更多的新鲜蔬菜外。以鲑鱼闻名于世的朗_河。餐厅提供各种各样的服务(尽管肉食者也可以点本地特色的河豚和驯鹿)。我特别喜欢你口中融化的三文鱼开胃菜,配三文鱼鱼子。a poached egg yolk,西洋菜和茴香。这里的早餐也非常值得注意;这里有华夫饼制造商和自制饼干。But now it was time to leave the comforts of this Icelandic-Canadian isle for the wilder Highlands.

Absolutely divine salmon

Absolutely divine salmon

Reykjavik_Guide

高地

The Highlands

We'd heard that few tourists visit the冰岛高地until the summertime,since the main attraction here,除了巨大的虚无延伸,is the Landmannalaugar national park.公园的中心只有“超级吉普车”在任何时候都可以到达,因为有许多河流需要涉水。尽管在夏天有一条路一直延伸到某一点,最好用4×4。The park is open for hiking officially from the end of June through August,and within the nature reserve the only accommodation is the tent you carry on your back and a few huts if you can snag a spot.夏天的远足者可以欣赏到这些山峦的迷人景色。glacier lakes and more.The most popular hike here is a 4-day trail,and you'd be surprised at the number of people who walk it.But in the off-season,这是一个完全不同的故事。

A damn beautiful dam

A damn beautiful dam

The last bastion of civilization before Landmannalaugar is theHighland Center at Hrauneyjar,我们在四月下旬的一天中午到达那里。白雪覆盖着荒芜的大地,我们有幸看到了晴朗的蓝天和-8度的天气。我们走进来,看到一个没有人的前台,and a sign suggesting to find staff in the kitchen.So here I adventured,在我的袜子脚(另一个标志说把鞋子留在门口)to find a young woman wielding a large knife to the rhythm of death metal.It turned out that we were the first guests of the season,事实上,那天晚上唯一的客人,taken care of by two Polish women hardy enough to accept living out here.The next evening we were joined by two French guys,我们和谁吃饭,for it would have been impolite not to,我们共享一个大房间和广阔的空间。The Highland Center features a gas pump,the last one for a few hundred kilometers.不是说你能开那么远,for further north the road is closed.Its cafeteria serves soup and hamburgers and sells souvenirs to passersby,但是晚餐的客人可以点当天的盘子,令人惊讶的好和非常充足的满足饥饿的远足者。

We were totally alone at Sigoldufoss in the Highlands!

We were totally alone at Sigoldufoss in the Highlands!

一天只剩下几个小时的光,我们出发去看一个你在春天唯一能去的地方,a waterfall near a dam just a short way down the road.铺砌的道路环绕着一个疯狂的绿松石盆地,这个盆地被称为Hrauneujalon,and soon you arrive at Sigöldufoss.At this point in the trip we'd seen a lot of fosses (waterfalls),但这个很特别,因为我们completely,alone.I also liked this one because there was no parking lot,just a widening of the road,走几步就到了。After photographing the moment,we went for a walk around to the other side (it looked like there was a circle path,但事实上没有)。It became apparent how easy it could be to get lost here when we didn't quite follow our own tracks back out.There is something very powerful about this feeling of being completely immersed in and subjected to a natural environment.

这就是他们所说的超级吉普车之旅。

这就是他们所说的超级吉普车之旅。

More of this feeling would come the next day,though we were less scared of being found frozen to death,when we enteredLandmannalaugar用一个驾驶超级吉普车的专家指南.In winter and spring,即使有一辆这样的车,也不可能一直开到公园里去,因为它会被大雾笼罩,or the snow-covered ground can become unstable,所以如果这次旅行是你游览高地的原因,一定要留两天时间来做。When we got to a bar indicating the road closed ahead,Hilmarour guide,couldn't hide his joy as he drove around it,deflating his gigantic tires as we went.然后我们在未刮过的雪上开车,in a direction only he knew,无论是经验还是因为他在跟踪GPS和雷达设备。The sky was cloudier than the day before,所以白色是那么的纯洁,只有几条线由岩石指示。Hilmar indicated to us where some highlights were located,就像LJ_Tipollur火山口湖,在夏天一定很不可思议,but being covered in snow,we could only take his word for it.

Into the great white open: Landmannalaugar

Into the great white open: Landmannalaugar

不到两个小时就到达了公园的中心点,天然温泉的护林员小屋。Although I am not adventurous,I hadn't come all this way not to jump in.水温是38到40摄氏度,but the challenge was that you changed inside,在进入(离开)之前,必须在雪中行走大约100米。I followed Hilmar's lead and put a fleece and pants on top of my suit,而托马索穿着浴袍,试图穿上SPA拖鞋在雪地里行走,然后不得不回去拿他的登山靴。A good time was had by all.

可能有人告诉他你不能在大雪中穿温泉拖鞋

可能有人告诉他你不能在大雪中穿温泉拖鞋

从兰德曼纳劳加回来更像是一次冒险。虽然条件不错,我们发现一些不太稳定的雪正试图走另一条路。在这里,我们非常感谢导游的专业知识,愿景,and use of technology.有一次我们直着开车,他突然停了下来,我们觉得一切都很好,looked ahead a bit and said "no thanks".He backed up,盘旋,告诉我们他避免了什么:虽然在我们面前看不见,在这里,地面下降了大约12英尺。他说他只是觉得雪有点奇怪。

当我们开车出去的时候,in silence and concentration,we noticed some odd shaped rocks and I asked Hilmar if it is true that a high percentage of Icelanders believe in trolls and elves: rocks are supposedly actually trolls frozen in time.我们的向导告诉我们砍伐或移动一棵树被认为是不吉利的,正如移动的岩石可能导致不幸。不愿意直接否认超自然的存在,他解释说,他认为这是一种尊重自然的方式,他打算保持这一传统。

冰岛旅馆

The house on the left is an elf house,built to provide hospitality to the little beings

There are two main ways to access the Highlands.从朗_去的路上,英格建议在我们的4×4公路上修建一条状况良好的土路。This road,26号,took us about 2.5 hours.在部分中,with an 80km/h limit,the unpaved path was in better condition than manysuperstrade在意大利;in others,especially towards the end,it had crazy turns,岩石和波纹使它相当颠簸。It was,然而,开车真有趣。没有瀑布或特定的景点可看,the road goes through farmlands and along various streams,with numerous photo ops.我们真的一直穿过另一辆车。

The sun starting to set in the Highlands

The sun starting to set in the Highlands

在回雷克雅未克的路上,in worsening weather,我们走了32号公路,然后连接到35号公路,这是黄金圈的一部分。在32号公路上,我们在另一个瀑布海佛斯停了下来,在这倾盆大雨中,我们对自己都是如此。

We were also the only people here

We were also the only people here

再往上35,我们找到了盖西尔,所有的巴士旅行都必须看。我们特别喜欢凯里湖,你可以一路走走,欣赏火山土的美丽色彩,growing lichens and moss,and blue water.

我在Keri

我在Keri

A highlight of the return trip was having lunch in the tomato greenhouse ofFridheimar Farm.Bathed in warm yellow light and surrounded by happy tomato and basil plants pollinated by buzzing bees,you can have tomato soup or a few other dishes and learn about growing vegetables year-round in a cold climate.The potential for being touristy here was high,但他们完全避免了,and I had the best tomato cheesecake I've ever tasted (OK,I've never had such a thing before,但是相信我,令人难忘)。

A truly delicious dessert with...西红柿!

A truly delicious dessert with… tomatoes!

At the end of a week,我们行驶了1000多公里,只覆盖了冰岛的一小部分地区。I admit that I expected this holiday to involve more hiking,我的结论是公路旅行.Perhaps in the summer,或者在访问较少的地区,there are more opportunities to go on day-long hikes.事实上,the sites were all very accessible from the main road,except in the Highlands.如果我要回来,I'd want to see the Easternmost area – considered off the beaten track even to Icelanders – or the uninhabited Westfjords,当然更难导航。对我来说,冰岛是一生只有一次的经历.It's not cheap,但如果它在你的清单上,do it now,and do it in style.这一定会令人难忘的。

免责声明:我在冰岛的住宿部分由以下酒店赞助:Tower Suites,酒店,高地中心。With thanks as well to Europcar/Holdur and to Southcoast Adventure.All opinions are my own.

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Alexandra Korey aka vwin网Arttrav是佛罗伦萨的艺术历史学家和艺术营销顾问。